You've picked out the car, you've checked the sticker, and you've told yourself the number works.

But the purchase price is the easy part to see. The costs that actually decide whether you can live with a sports car sit in the years after you drive it off the lot. Don't just budget for the car. Budget for what it demands once it's yours.

Insurance treats you differently

A standard sedan quote is a starting point, not a preview. Sports cars land in a much higher premium bracket because of their power, their value, and their repair costs. Many use specialized materials such as carbon fiber and aluminum, which make body repairs more expensive, and their desirability makes them attractive to thieves.

A new Chevrolet Corvette, a Porsche 911, or a Nissan Z will typically cost noticeably more per year to insure than a mid-size SUV of similar value. Call your insurer with the exact model and trim before you sign anything. Some companies won't even quote certain high-performance trims for younger drivers.

You can soften the premium. A higher deductible usually lowers it, as long as you can afford to pay that amount after a claim. Comparing quotes from several insurers also pays off, and keeping annual mileage low, fitting an anti-theft device, or completing a defensive driving course can earn discounts with some companies. A clean driving record helps too.

Tires wear fast and cost more

Performance tires are soft, wide, and expensive. A set of four on something like a BMW M4 or a Mustang GT with the performance package can run well past $1,200, and the rears often wear out before the fronts.

You'll also replace them more often than you would on a commuter car. Budget for one set every two to three years if you drive it regularly, and don't forget a second set of wheels if you live somewhere with real winters.

Maintenance runs on a tighter clock

Sports cars ask for more frequent fluid changes and bigger brake jobs. High-performance brake pads and rotors on a car like a Porsche Cayman or a Corvette can cost several times what a normal sedan set does, and track days wear them out faster.

Oil changes on some models use more oil and pricier filters. The owner's manual often calls for shorter service intervals, which means more visits and more receipts. Parts made from specialized materials also need a shop with the right tools and training, so the cheapest garage nearby may not be an option.

The small stuff adds up quietly

Low front splitters scrape on driveways, and wide wheels pick up curb rash faster. Premium fuel is usually required, and a thirsty engine burns more of it. If you drive the car every day, that fuel bill arrives every week, which is one reason some owners keep a cheaper car for commuting.

Then there's depreciation, which hits some performance models harder than you'd expect. A car that's fun to own is still a car you'll need to park, clean, and occasionally repair.

Plan before you commit

Add up insurance, tires, fuel, and a realistic maintenance fund for one year. If that number feels tight, the car probably does too. A used model with a documented service history can save you real money compared with a new one.

Before you buy used, get a pre-purchase inspection from a shop that knows the model, not a general mechanic. The report shows what will need attention soon, so you can add it to your first-year budget or use it to negotiate the price.

Get the insurance quote and the inspection report in hand before you negotiate, then set the year-one total next to your monthly budget. If both still work, you'll know exactly what you're signing up for.